Luang Prabang

Today is my third day in Luang Prabang. I had planned to leave after one day and take the slow boat ride up the Mekong River and around to the Thailand border...I kept feeling though that I should stay here instead. I have not been disappointed with my decision. There is so much to share about this place that I'm not sure where to start, so I'll describe a day from my experience so far. I've posted more photos too...I have many more but they take forever to upload: http://picasaweb.google.com/klwomack/LuangPrabang?feat=directlink

Mornings are early, I have been up by 5 am everyday, sometimes earlier. The monks who live and study at the numerous Wats around the city do their morning alms rounds between 5:30 and 6:30. The contrast of darkness and mist, with bright orange robes and glistening gold sashes is moving, to say the least. Each procession is led by an older monk, the teacher, and followed by the young men. Getting food from the local people is how they eat, other than the occasional candy, etc. (some of these monks are 12 years old!). Next (for me anyways) is a Lao Coffee, which is grown in southern Laos and served with sweet milk. It's very strong and very delicious, and about $0.20. I am less than impressed with the breakfast here, unfortunately they try to cater to perceived western/traveler tastes, so you get a menu with "American breakfast, European Breakfast, etc." as your options. I much prefer the sticky rice with mango and coconut milk myself! Note about sticky rice...there are many different ethnic groups in Lao and all around SE Asia, and the kind of rice they prefer is a major thing. The highland tribes here eat regular rice, but many Lao eat sticky rice, which is served in a bamboo container, and you can actually pick up and eat with your fingers. It's very good and I hope to learn how to make it!

Okay, so then a stroll through the local morning market. This is where people bring vegetables, fruit, meat and other goods to sell, mostly to other local people. They do not shop at grocery stores, they buy things daily to eat and cook. As you can see from the photos, there are peppers, veggies, rice, noodles, and other things that are very familiar. There are also things that are not so familiar, such as fish (I mean just caught from the Mekong and still alive), Python (see the photo), roasted rat, squirrel, frogs, bats, and yes, dog. I also saw a live crocodile (very small) that they were trying to kill, and songbirds tied by the leg to buy live to eat. I admit that this was one of the harder parts of the culture for me to appreciate...but it is very real and it works for them. The fact that they have food makes them rich compared to many people in the world, so who am I to judge, eh. I did have a friend ask if I was going to try the rat...I think I'll pass this time around.

I have toured the many Wats (monasteries), which are very beautiful. Most of the statues are of Buddha at various life stages and with various hand gestures. The hand held up and facing out means "blessing"...and I feel very blessed here. I also did a mountain bike trip yesterday to a waterfall, a weaving village, Lao Whiskey making village, and a Hmong village. There are a few photos...the tour company I went with does eco tours and our guide was Hmong -- they contribute back to the villages with books and educational materials. We played with the children and showed them our cameras and photos, which was great fun for all I think. They were very gracious, and although I'm still torn about the photos, they will be precious to me forever. A note about the Hmong People...they come from China originally and are highland dwellers. They speak a different language from Lao, and they are not buddhist, but animists...they believe in spirits and have a village Shaman. This village was relatively new, b/c the Lao government has been forcibly moving Hmong people from the highlands nearer to the cities. This is happening not only in Lao, but all around SE Asia, and has been most pronounced here since Poppy cultivation and opium production was banned in 2000. The trip was fantastic, and our guide Kai was wonderful...my only complaint is the bike had to have been the single most uncomfortable bike I've ever ridden and it was a 25 mile day...I literally rode much of the afternoon standing up ...to no avail. Not to worry, at $4/hour I can afford to have a few massages to work out the kinks ; )

Evenings start with Beerlao at a riverside restaurant and watching the stunning sunset. Then a stroll through the evening craft market where you can buy amazing silks and textiles, etc. for a great price. And finally, socializing with people from all over the world! I have met very few americans, but have met and had various meals, beers, and strolls with travlers from every continent except Antarctica! That has to be one of my favorite parts of this experience so far-a reminder that we are truly part of a global society...a very beautiful thing indeed.