I had mixed feelings as I flew out and over Luang Prabang on my way to Chiang Mai, not the least of which was a bit of anxiousness about flying on Lao Airlines...let's just say they don't have the best reputation for their attention to safety. They serve free Beerlao though, so there's that. I also had a tinge of sadness leaving this country that I have so enjoyed, although it was not what I had expected, somehow that added to the magic of my experience there. As my introduction to Asia, I must say that it had me at Sabaidee!
So I have safely arrived in Chiang Mai at the location of my yoga training. It will be an interesting shift to settle in for a couple weeks to the completely different experience of daily yoga, meditation, study, and reflection. There are 30 people here, again from all over the world. The yoga shala, or practice space is unbelievably gorgeous and built of locals wood (teakwood I think). The instructor, Jonas (pronounced Yonas) seems really great and I am looking forward to whatever happens next. You would think that the excitement as I turn to such a focused time would be less pronounced than traveling around, but I think it could be just the opposite...my personal adventure might just get really exciting about now.
Friday, January 30, 2009
Wednesday, January 28, 2009
Luang Prabang
Today is my third day in Luang Prabang. I had planned to leave after one day and take the slow boat ride up the Mekong River and around to the Thailand border...I kept feeling though that I should stay here instead. I have not been disappointed with my decision. There is so much to share about this place that I'm not sure where to start, so I'll describe a day from my experience so far. I've posted more photos too...I have many more but they take forever to upload: http://picasaweb.google.com/klwomack/LuangPrabang?feat=directlink
Mornings are early, I have been up by 5 am everyday, sometimes earlier. The monks who live and study at the numerous Wats around the city do their morning alms rounds between 5:30 and 6:30. The contrast of darkness and mist, with bright orange robes and glistening gold sashes is moving, to say the least. Each procession is led by an older monk, the teacher, and followed by the young men. Getting food from the local people is how they eat, other than the occasional candy, etc. (some of these monks are 12 years old!). Next (for me anyways) is a Lao Coffee, which is grown in southern Laos and served with sweet milk. It's very strong and very delicious, and about $0.20. I am less than impressed with the breakfast here, unfortunately they try to cater to perceived western/traveler tastes, so you get a menu with "American breakfast, European Breakfast, etc." as your options. I much prefer the sticky rice with mango and coconut milk myself! Note about sticky rice...there are many different ethnic groups in Lao and all around SE Asia, and the kind of rice they prefer is a major thing. The highland tribes here eat regular rice, but many Lao eat sticky rice, which is served in a bamboo container, and you can actually pick up and eat with your fingers. It's very good and I hope to learn how to make it!
Okay, so then a stroll through the local morning market. This is where people bring vegetables, fruit, meat and other goods to sell, mostly to other local people. They do not shop at grocery stores, they buy things daily to eat and cook. As you can see from the photos, there are peppers, veggies, rice, noodles, and other things that are very familiar. There are also things that are not so familiar, such as fish (I mean just caught from the Mekong and still alive), Python (see the photo), roasted rat, squirrel, frogs, bats, and yes, dog. I also saw a live crocodile (very small) that they were trying to kill, and songbirds tied by the leg to buy live to eat. I admit that this was one of the harder parts of the culture for me to appreciate...but it is very real and it works for them. The fact that they have food makes them rich compared to many people in the world, so who am I to judge, eh. I did have a friend ask if I was going to try the rat...I think I'll pass this time around.
I have toured the many Wats (monasteries), which are very beautiful. Most of the statues are of Buddha at various life stages and with various hand gestures. The hand held up and facing out means "blessing"...and I feel very blessed here. I also did a mountain bike trip yesterday to a waterfall, a weaving village, Lao Whiskey making village, and a Hmong village. There are a few photos...the tour company I went with does eco tours and our guide was Hmong -- they contribute back to the villages with books and educational materials. We played with the children and showed them our cameras and photos, which was great fun for all I think. They were very gracious, and although I'm still torn about the photos, they will be precious to me forever. A note about the Hmong People...they come from China originally and are highland dwellers. They speak a different language from Lao, and they are not buddhist, but animists...they believe in spirits and have a village Shaman. This village was relatively new, b/c the Lao government has been forcibly moving Hmong people from the highlands nearer to the cities. This is happening not only in Lao, but all around SE Asia, and has been most pronounced here since Poppy cultivation and opium production was banned in 2000. The trip was fantastic, and our guide Kai was wonderful...my only complaint is the bike had to have been the single most uncomfortable bike I've ever ridden and it was a 25 mile day...I literally rode much of the afternoon standing up ...to no avail. Not to worry, at $4/hour I can afford to have a few massages to work out the kinks ; )
Evenings start with Beerlao at a riverside restaurant and watching the stunning sunset. Then a stroll through the evening craft market where you can buy amazing silks and textiles, etc. for a great price. And finally, socializing with people from all over the world! I have met very few americans, but have met and had various meals, beers, and strolls with travlers from every continent except Antarctica! That has to be one of my favorite parts of this experience so far-a reminder that we are truly part of a global society...a very beautiful thing indeed.
Mornings are early, I have been up by 5 am everyday, sometimes earlier. The monks who live and study at the numerous Wats around the city do their morning alms rounds between 5:30 and 6:30. The contrast of darkness and mist, with bright orange robes and glistening gold sashes is moving, to say the least. Each procession is led by an older monk, the teacher, and followed by the young men. Getting food from the local people is how they eat, other than the occasional candy, etc. (some of these monks are 12 years old!). Next (for me anyways) is a Lao Coffee, which is grown in southern Laos and served with sweet milk. It's very strong and very delicious, and about $0.20. I am less than impressed with the breakfast here, unfortunately they try to cater to perceived western/traveler tastes, so you get a menu with "American breakfast, European Breakfast, etc." as your options. I much prefer the sticky rice with mango and coconut milk myself! Note about sticky rice...there are many different ethnic groups in Lao and all around SE Asia, and the kind of rice they prefer is a major thing. The highland tribes here eat regular rice, but many Lao eat sticky rice, which is served in a bamboo container, and you can actually pick up and eat with your fingers. It's very good and I hope to learn how to make it!
Okay, so then a stroll through the local morning market. This is where people bring vegetables, fruit, meat and other goods to sell, mostly to other local people. They do not shop at grocery stores, they buy things daily to eat and cook. As you can see from the photos, there are peppers, veggies, rice, noodles, and other things that are very familiar. There are also things that are not so familiar, such as fish (I mean just caught from the Mekong and still alive), Python (see the photo), roasted rat, squirrel, frogs, bats, and yes, dog. I also saw a live crocodile (very small) that they were trying to kill, and songbirds tied by the leg to buy live to eat. I admit that this was one of the harder parts of the culture for me to appreciate...but it is very real and it works for them. The fact that they have food makes them rich compared to many people in the world, so who am I to judge, eh. I did have a friend ask if I was going to try the rat...I think I'll pass this time around.
I have toured the many Wats (monasteries), which are very beautiful. Most of the statues are of Buddha at various life stages and with various hand gestures. The hand held up and facing out means "blessing"...and I feel very blessed here. I also did a mountain bike trip yesterday to a waterfall, a weaving village, Lao Whiskey making village, and a Hmong village. There are a few photos...the tour company I went with does eco tours and our guide was Hmong -- they contribute back to the villages with books and educational materials. We played with the children and showed them our cameras and photos, which was great fun for all I think. They were very gracious, and although I'm still torn about the photos, they will be precious to me forever. A note about the Hmong People...they come from China originally and are highland dwellers. They speak a different language from Lao, and they are not buddhist, but animists...they believe in spirits and have a village Shaman. This village was relatively new, b/c the Lao government has been forcibly moving Hmong people from the highlands nearer to the cities. This is happening not only in Lao, but all around SE Asia, and has been most pronounced here since Poppy cultivation and opium production was banned in 2000. The trip was fantastic, and our guide Kai was wonderful...my only complaint is the bike had to have been the single most uncomfortable bike I've ever ridden and it was a 25 mile day...I literally rode much of the afternoon standing up ...to no avail. Not to worry, at $4/hour I can afford to have a few massages to work out the kinks ; )
Evenings start with Beerlao at a riverside restaurant and watching the stunning sunset. Then a stroll through the evening craft market where you can buy amazing silks and textiles, etc. for a great price. And finally, socializing with people from all over the world! I have met very few americans, but have met and had various meals, beers, and strolls with travlers from every continent except Antarctica! That has to be one of my favorite parts of this experience so far-a reminder that we are truly part of a global society...a very beautiful thing indeed.
Sunday, January 25, 2009
Vang Vieng
This must be one of the most stunningly beautiful places I have ever seen. The limestone karst walls rise up out of the valley floor, which is covered with rice fields and bisected by the Nam Song (River Song). Incredible, inspirational beauty!
I met a British traveler from Oxford who I've been bumming around here with. There is a typical route that many backpackers do and neither of us were all that interested, so we rented scooters for the day today and rode out to see some less-visited caves and Hmong Villages. I did not take many pictures of the people because I feel that it's disrespectful in a way...many people gawk and use them as a tourist attraction and I don't want to be like that. I couldn't help but take a few though when two little girls near my guest house saw me with my poi and played with them though...I gave them a mini lesson and some gum...fair fair, same same! They are beautiful, happy people, and extremely gracious. Apparantly one of their national sayings is "too much work is bad for the brain"...I buy that! It was a wonderful experience! I will say this, though...those scooters are a bit trickier than you would think, especially with the way people drive around here! No injuries, but a bit o' broken plastic on the fender...oopsy!
On another note, I feel totally at ease traveling here...you're always haggling a bit, but when you realize you're haggling over .25 or so it takes on a new meaning, not quite so serious. The bungalow I'm staying at is $9/day and my meal last night was ~$2.50, including beer. The weather is beautiful, warm during the day, but it cools way down at night-to the point where I needed my jacket and extra pants. Obviously, internet is readily available and very cheap...I wondered if this is how I should be spending some of my time, but my days are full and being here alone I love connecting with all of you out there! I have a 7 hour bus ride tomorrow to Luang Prabang, so plenty of time to reflect : )
Also, I hope that this album link works with a few photos...obviously I have tons more, but it's a time suck at the internet cafe to get them uploaded so I'll keep picking a few!
http://picasaweb.google.com/klwomack/Vientiane?feat=directlink
I met a British traveler from Oxford who I've been bumming around here with. There is a typical route that many backpackers do and neither of us were all that interested, so we rented scooters for the day today and rode out to see some less-visited caves and Hmong Villages. I did not take many pictures of the people because I feel that it's disrespectful in a way...many people gawk and use them as a tourist attraction and I don't want to be like that. I couldn't help but take a few though when two little girls near my guest house saw me with my poi and played with them though...I gave them a mini lesson and some gum...fair fair, same same! They are beautiful, happy people, and extremely gracious. Apparantly one of their national sayings is "too much work is bad for the brain"...I buy that! It was a wonderful experience! I will say this, though...those scooters are a bit trickier than you would think, especially with the way people drive around here! No injuries, but a bit o' broken plastic on the fender...oopsy!
On another note, I feel totally at ease traveling here...you're always haggling a bit, but when you realize you're haggling over .25 or so it takes on a new meaning, not quite so serious. The bungalow I'm staying at is $9/day and my meal last night was ~$2.50, including beer. The weather is beautiful, warm during the day, but it cools way down at night-to the point where I needed my jacket and extra pants. Obviously, internet is readily available and very cheap...I wondered if this is how I should be spending some of my time, but my days are full and being here alone I love connecting with all of you out there! I have a 7 hour bus ride tomorrow to Luang Prabang, so plenty of time to reflect : )
Also, I hope that this album link works with a few photos...obviously I have tons more, but it's a time suck at the internet cafe to get them uploaded so I'll keep picking a few!
http://picasaweb.google.com/klwomack/Vientiane?feat=directlink
Friday, January 23, 2009
Photos
I am struggling to upload photos. I'll keep working on it, but the connections here are not very fast and I'm out of time! Stay tuned...
Vientiane
Sparing details of additional travel, I successfully landed myself in Vientiane, the capital city of the Lao People's Democratic Republic. The only thing I will say is that the driving here puts to shame pretty much any other experience I've had...they drive fast and agressively, and have 2 speeds, full throttle and full breaks! I hear that's pretty par for the course in Asia overall though. Anyways, Lao PDR is the official name, and I have no idea why it's usually referred to (and spelled) as Laos. Regardless...it's an incredible place not far across the border with Thailand, along the Mekong River. It is the dry season here, and as you might see from the photos (assuming I can make that whole thing work), you'll note that the river is indeed pretty dry. Lots of restaurants and roadside stands and many people shouting "tuk-tuk??" as you walk by. The tuk-tuks are ubiquitous throughout SE Asia, but I think most places put their own spin on it.
I was trying to find my way to a buddhist temple and befriended a young monk (maybe 15 years old). I will not be able to reproduce his name, as his english was not good and my Lao pretty much sucks! Anyway, he showed me their prayer room and monastary and another of the city sites...The village where he is from in Southern Laos does not have a school (at all), and the only way that he could afford to attend school was to enter the monkhood. Apparantly this is very common here as in other parts of the world where basic education and literacy are considered luxury. He was lovely and kept asking when I was coming back to Vientiane. He pointed me vaguely in the direction of another temple and then departed and I promptly got lost, realizing that I had been concentrating too hard on communicating with him and not nearly enough paying attention to where we were! Ah, but thank goodness then for the passing Tuk tuk and the address card for my guest house : ) Tomorrow, on to Vang Vieng.
I was trying to find my way to a buddhist temple and befriended a young monk (maybe 15 years old). I will not be able to reproduce his name, as his english was not good and my Lao pretty much sucks! Anyway, he showed me their prayer room and monastary and another of the city sites...The village where he is from in Southern Laos does not have a school (at all), and the only way that he could afford to attend school was to enter the monkhood. Apparantly this is very common here as in other parts of the world where basic education and literacy are considered luxury. He was lovely and kept asking when I was coming back to Vientiane. He pointed me vaguely in the direction of another temple and then departed and I promptly got lost, realizing that I had been concentrating too hard on communicating with him and not nearly enough paying attention to where we were! Ah, but thank goodness then for the passing Tuk tuk and the address card for my guest house : ) Tomorrow, on to Vang Vieng.
Thursday, January 22, 2009
Time traveling
When I was making preparations for this trip and thinking about the travel to Thailand, my friend Allyson told me not to even bother trying to figure out how long each flight segment would be, what time it would be in which location, etc. I did not appreciate how accurate that was until now!! I have arrived in Bangkok (and so did my backpack-bless the baggage gods!!)...now some undeterminable number of hours from when I started out. I rented a room for 6 hours to shower and regroup until 4:30 this morning, and then back at it. It is difficult to convey my sense of displacement and the lack of sense of "time" that I have right now. I am in a hotel in Bangkok, but really could be anywhere. In between reading and laps around the Seoul airport past an endless stream of the same "duty free" stores, I found Facebook to be a welcome distraction (just like home?), and was able to chat with a few folks. It was a fascinating thing to contemplate our construction of "time zones" as I chatted real-time (literally) with someone across the world...
If all goes as planned, I will be in Lao People's Republic this time tomorrow evening!
If all goes as planned, I will be in Lao People's Republic this time tomorrow evening!
Wednesday, January 21, 2009
Going with the flow (aka Plan B)
A relatively loose itinerary was one of my main goals for this trip. The importance of that, and of not holding closely to expectations of doing any particular thing at a particular time, became evident before I even left Boise! Fog in Seattle led to delayed flights out of Boise, and ultimately to an entirely new flight itinerary and 21 more hours of travel! I sit now in the Seoul Airport (7:24 am, Thursday Jan. 22) until 5:30 this evening, so good thing I had nowhere in particular to be!
As for the travel, well I must say that I am so glad I was not traveling on an American air carrier (I was on Korean Air). Even economy seats are roomy, and you're greeted by a bottle of water, blanket, pillow, and get this...slippers!! You have your own tv screen, movies, and they feed you 2 entire meals! Don't get me wrong, 12 hours is still a long time on a plane, but bearable at least.
So...bound for Bangkok next, but really, who knows!?
As for the travel, well I must say that I am so glad I was not traveling on an American air carrier (I was on Korean Air). Even economy seats are roomy, and you're greeted by a bottle of water, blanket, pillow, and get this...slippers!! You have your own tv screen, movies, and they feed you 2 entire meals! Don't get me wrong, 12 hours is still a long time on a plane, but bearable at least.
So...bound for Bangkok next, but really, who knows!?
Sunday, January 18, 2009
Pre-departure...
Passport...check. Blessed wonderful dogsitters...check. Huge pile of stuff to fit into one not-so-huge bag...check. Moments of sheer excitement mixed with flashes of anxiety...check. I guess I'm all set for SE Asia!!
I leave Jan. 20 en route to Bangkok, Thailand (the irony of leaving the country on an inauguration day that I have been waiting years for is definitely not lost on me!). Stopping briefly in Seattle and Seoul, I arrive in Bangkok around 12:30 am on January 22!! It is 20 hours of flight time plus a 14 hour time difference (Bangkok is 14 hours AHEAD of MST). There I hope to catch a few hours sleep and a shower and then fly to Udon Thani in NE Thailand in the morning. From there my travel plans are open, but I know I want to travel across the border into Laos, visiting Vientiane and spending a few days in Luang Prabang. Then a 2-day slow boat ride up the Mekong River and back into Thailand at Huay Xai. I'm giving the names so if anyone is so inclined to search a map...there you have it! Although I know these places I tentatively plan to visit...I have no idea yet how I will get around between them (no bus tickets, schedules, car rentals, etc.) or what i'll do, where I'll stay when I get there! It's a very strange feeling to be flying alone to another continent and have a few names of a few places in a whole country, and that's IT!!! For those of you who know me well, you can imagine the internal battle I'm having as I try to suppress Ms. Type A as she scolds me incessantly for my irresponsible behavior. Calm down dear Kendra, all is well.
Anyways...next up is travel to Chiang Mai (NW Thailand), where I am fortunate enough to have 16 days to practice and study yoga (www.shantaya.org). I am ecstatic about this opportunity, and I anticipate radical expansion of my practice and knowledge, with plenty of time to reflect, meditate, and just be in that glorious place. From there (around Feb. 15), all I know is that I'm headed SOUTH, to the glorious Thai beaches and islands. Don't know which ones, where, or how...but all in good time.
This planet is teaming with unbelievable places and people...I can't wait to see and meet a few more of them!
I leave Jan. 20 en route to Bangkok, Thailand (the irony of leaving the country on an inauguration day that I have been waiting years for is definitely not lost on me!). Stopping briefly in Seattle and Seoul, I arrive in Bangkok around 12:30 am on January 22!! It is 20 hours of flight time plus a 14 hour time difference (Bangkok is 14 hours AHEAD of MST). There I hope to catch a few hours sleep and a shower and then fly to Udon Thani in NE Thailand in the morning. From there my travel plans are open, but I know I want to travel across the border into Laos, visiting Vientiane and spending a few days in Luang Prabang. Then a 2-day slow boat ride up the Mekong River and back into Thailand at Huay Xai. I'm giving the names so if anyone is so inclined to search a map...there you have it! Although I know these places I tentatively plan to visit...I have no idea yet how I will get around between them (no bus tickets, schedules, car rentals, etc.) or what i'll do, where I'll stay when I get there! It's a very strange feeling to be flying alone to another continent and have a few names of a few places in a whole country, and that's IT!!! For those of you who know me well, you can imagine the internal battle I'm having as I try to suppress Ms. Type A as she scolds me incessantly for my irresponsible behavior. Calm down dear Kendra, all is well.
Anyways...next up is travel to Chiang Mai (NW Thailand), where I am fortunate enough to have 16 days to practice and study yoga (www.shantaya.org). I am ecstatic about this opportunity, and I anticipate radical expansion of my practice and knowledge, with plenty of time to reflect, meditate, and just be in that glorious place. From there (around Feb. 15), all I know is that I'm headed SOUTH, to the glorious Thai beaches and islands. Don't know which ones, where, or how...but all in good time.
This planet is teaming with unbelievable places and people...I can't wait to see and meet a few more of them!
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